A driveway takes a beating — tyres, oil drips, foot traffic, and in Cape Town a steady dusting of southeaster grit and coastal salt on top of it. Pressure washing brings it back, but the first go can be intimidating if you have never held a lance before. These five tips cover the things that actually make the difference between a clean, even finish and a streaky, stripey mess.
1. Prep before you pull the trigger
The temptation is to switch on and start blasting, but ten minutes of prep saves you a lot of grief. Sweep off leaves, stones and loose grit first — anything left lying around either clogs the machine or gets fired across your garden like a pellet. Pull or spray out weeds growing through the joints, since a jet alone tends to shred the tops and leave the roots behind.
Then look after everything around the driveway. Drape plastic sheeting or a tarp over nearby beds and pot plants, weigh it down, and shut the windows and doors on that side of the house — driveways throw a surprising amount of dirty spray. Give the surface a quick once-over for cracks or lifting pavers while you are at it; high pressure will happily widen a crack you did not fix first.
2. Get the right machine and detergent
For a driveway you want a proper petrol or heavy electric unit, not the little plug-in you use on the car. Around 3000 PSI is the sweet spot for face brick, concrete and interlocking pavers — enough to shift ingrained grime without gouging the surface. Renting is the sensible move if you only do this once or twice a year; buying makes sense if you have a big property and plan to keep on top of it.
- Nozzles: a set matters more than raw power. A wide 25 or 40 degree tip does the cleaning; keep the narrow 0 degree turbo tip for stubborn spots only, and never on soft plaster or old brick.
- Detergent: use a degreaser made for paving rather than dish soap. It breaks down oil, grease and tyre marks far better and, if you pick a plant-friendly one, it won't scorch your garden or harm pets.
- Water: have a decent hose supply on hand — these machines get thirsty, and running one dry damages the pump.
3. Nail the technique
This is where most DIY jobs go wrong. Start by laying down detergent with a low-pressure tip and let it dwell for a few minutes so it can lift the dirt — don't let it dry out in the sun, which happens fast on a hot Cape Town afternoon. Then switch to your cleaning nozzle and work in overlapping passes, keeping the tip a consistent distance off the surface and moving steadily. Lingering in one spot leaves a darker clean line that shows up the moment the driveway dries.
Work in one direction so you are always pushing the dirty water ahead of you rather than back over cleaned ground. On a sloped driveway, that means top to bottom. If you want the full step-by-step version, our guide on how to clean your driveway walks through it in more detail.
4. Respect the safety side
A pressure washer is not a toy — at 3000 PSI the jet will cut skin, so treat it with the same care you would a power tool. Wear closed, non-slip shoes, eye protection and gloves, and never point the lance at anyone, at pets, or at windows and light fittings. Keep electrical leads and plugs well clear of the water, and if you are on an electric unit make sure it is properly earthed. Wet paving is slippery underfoot too, so watch your footing as you go.
5. Finish the job properly
Once the paving is clean, give it a final rinse to clear off any detergent residue and let it dry fully before parking on it or walking across in smooth-soled shoes. Have another look for cracks now that the muck is gone — they are far easier to spot on clean paving, and worth patching before winter rain gets into them.
For a longer-lasting result, consider sealing concrete or block paving once it is bone dry. A sealer helps oil and stains sit on top rather than soak in, so the next clean is quicker. How regularly you need to repeat all this depends on shade, traffic and how close you are to the sea — we cover that in our note on how often to pressure wash your driveway.
None of this is complicated, but it is physical, messy work and a hired machine plus a Saturday adds up. If you would rather skip it, our driveway and paving cleaning team does the lot — kit, detergent and the finish — without you lifting a lance.
Frequently asked questions
What PSI do I need for a driveway?
Around 3000 PSI is ideal for concrete, face brick and interlocking pavers. Much less and you'll struggle with ingrained grime; much more, used carelessly, can etch softer surfaces. The nozzle you choose matters as much as the pressure — a wide-angle tip for general cleaning, a narrow one only for stubborn spots.
Will pressure washing damage my paving or plaster?
It can if you get too close or use the wrong nozzle. Older plaster, soft face brick and cracked paving are the most vulnerable. Keep the tip a steady distance off the surface, avoid the pinpoint 0-degree jet on delicate areas, and fix any loose or cracked sections before you start.
Do I need special detergent, or is soap fine?
Use a proper paving degreaser rather than household soap. It's formulated to break down oil, grease and tyre marks that plain water and soap leave behind, and the plant-friendly ones won't harm your garden or pets when the runoff hits the beds.
Is it worth doing myself or should I call a pro?
For a small, lightly soiled driveway, DIY is perfectly doable. Once you factor in machine hire, detergent and a full morning of work — plus heavy oil stains or large areas — a pro often works out cheaper and quicker, and there's no risk of streaking or damage.
Rather have it sorted for you? See our driveway & paving cleaning service, get a free quote, or call us on 079 616 7761.