A clean driveway sets the tone for the whole property, and in Cape Town it also takes a beating from wet winters, dry summer dust and salt-laden southeaster wind. The good news is that most driveways come up beautifully with the right order of work and a bit of patience. Here's how to do it properly, whether you're scrubbing by hand or reaching for a pressure washer.
Start by clearing the surface
Before any water or detergent goes down, get the loose stuff off. Sweep or blow away leaves, sand and grit, and pull any weeds growing through the joints of your paving or brick. Skipping this step just turns your dirt into mud and spreads it around, so it's worth the ten minutes. While you're down there, take note of any oil patches or dark organic staining. Those need treating separately before the general wash, which we'll get to next.
Treat the stubborn stains first
General grime lifts with detergent, but oil, algae and that green-black film that builds up on shaded, damp sections won't. Deal with these as spot treatments before you wash the whole surface, so the driveway ends up an even colour instead of blotchy.
- Oil and grease: Cover fresh spills with cat litter or sand to soak up the worst, then work in a degreaser or a strong dishwashing-liquid paste and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes before scrubbing.
- Algae, moss and mould: Common on south-facing driveways and anywhere the sun doesn't reach. A diluted bleach or a proper patio cleaner, left to dwell, kills the growth so it rinses away rather than smearing.
- Rust and tyre marks: These are tougher and often need a dedicated rust remover or a second pass, so don't expect them to vanish on the first go.
Wash it down: detergent, technique, rinse
With the surface cleared and the bad spots treated, you're ready for the main clean. Whether you're using a pressure washer or a stiff broom and elbow grease, the sequence is the same: apply detergent, let it do the work, agitate, then rinse. Work in the shade or early in the morning if you can, because detergent that dries on the surface leaves streaks and is a pain to remove.
With a pressure washer
- Mix a detergent solution, roughly 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water, or use a purpose-made pressure-washer detergent through the soap nozzle.
- Apply it low and even, then give it a few minutes to dwell. Don't let it dry.
- Switch to a wider fan nozzle (a 25 or 40 degree tip), keep the lance moving, and work top to bottom in overlapping passes.
- Hold the tip back from the surface and away from joints and edges. Too much pressure too close will etch concrete, blast the sand out of block paving and chip brick.
- Rinse the whole driveway with clean water so no soap residue is left to attract dirt.
By hand, without a machine
- Wet the surface, then apply your detergent solution one section at a time so it doesn't dry out.
- Scrub hard with a stiff-bristled deck brush. This is where the actual cleaning happens, so don't rush it.
- Rinse each section thoroughly with a hose before moving on, and go back over anything that's still marked.
DIY or call a pro?
Plenty of homeowners clean their own driveway, and for a smallish, lightly soiled surface that's a perfectly sensible weekend job. It's worth being honest about the trade-offs, though, before you commit a Saturday to it.
- Doing it yourself: Saves money and you can work on your own schedule. The catch is that it's slow, physical work, hired machines are often underpowered, and the wrong nozzle or too much pressure can permanently damage the surface.
- Hiring a pro: A good operator brings commercial-grade equipment, knows how to read different surfaces, and gets an even result in a fraction of the time. If you go this route, choose an established company with genuine Google reviews, and have them come out to see the job first.
If you're weighing up whether the job is even due yet, it helps to know how often to pressure wash your driveway in our climate. And for anything large, badly stained or made of a delicate material, our driveway and paving cleaning service takes the risk off your hands.
Look after it once it's clean
A bit of aftercare keeps that fresh look going. Let the surface dry fully, then consider sealing concrete or block paving. A sealer resists oil and water, slows down algae in the damp months and makes the next clean far easier. Deal with new oil drips quickly rather than letting them soak in, keep the joints weeded, and a light rinse now and then stops grime from building back up.
Frequently asked questions
What's the best detergent for cleaning a driveway?
For general grime, a simple mix of about 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water works well, or a purpose-made pressure-washer detergent. Oil needs a degreaser and algae needs a bleach-based or patio cleaner, so match the product to the stain rather than expecting one solution to do everything.
Can a pressure washer damage my driveway?
Yes, if you're heavy-handed. Too much pressure held too close can etch concrete, blast the jointing sand out of block paving and chip brick or plaster edges. Use a wider fan nozzle, keep the tip back and moving, and start gentle before increasing pressure.
How do I get oil stains off my driveway?
Soak up any fresh oil with cat litter or sand first, then work in a degreaser or a strong dishwashing-liquid paste and leave it 10 to 15 minutes before scrubbing. Older, soaked-in stains often need a second treatment, and very stubborn ones may never lift completely without professional help.
Should I clean my driveway in the sun or shade?
Shade, or early morning. In Cape Town's hot, dry summers detergent dries fast in direct sun, which leaves streaks and stops it cleaning properly. Working out of the sun gives the cleaner time to dwell and rinse off evenly.
Want it done right? See our driveway cleaning service, get a free quote, or call us on 079 616 7761.